Off to Avignon

Saturday 3 August

Off to Avignon

We packed the car, or at least we tried to keep everything to a minimum and James actually packed the car, luckily he left just enough room for two kids sitting in the back seats. 

Heading out through Tournafeuille is always pretty, it was early morning so the roads, were quite busy, and then we made good progress on the motorway until we came close to the main centres, and then the traffic slowed to a crawl, sometimes for as long as 10 -20 minutes.  We had hoped to arrive at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue at around 1.30 pm. But the 4 hour journey took about 6 hours.  Apparently the President of France told his politicians that they were only allowed 2 weeks holiday (usually 4 weeks, the whole of France goes on holiday in August) and it must be the first two weeks in August, so obviously everyone believed him and clogged up the motorways!

As we drove into L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue we were immediately on the alert for a park in the usual narrow medieval streets and compact buildings.  

Driving down the side of the canal in the main road we spotted a family about to reach their car and James did his usual dive to the right and stop and flashed his hazard lights.  That's ok, we're not in any rush.  Well... neither were they,  it took Papa a good 10 mins to get baby out of the pram and into the car, adjusting the straps, Mama coming out to check, thinking about how to fold the pram, folding the pram, putting the shopping bags in, rearranging the shopping bags, and at last closing the boot and getting into the car.  He even started up the engine, for a minute there we were thinking they were going to have afternoon tea in the car before moving away.  Then it can only happen in France, someone parked right up behind him parallel to the street and the passenger got out obviously to pop into the shop for something.  So Papa couldn't get out!!  Well he tried to reverse at a slight angle, then drove back in, tried reversing again, meanwhile the driver of the car parked behind him was sitting there watching.  We were all going to get out and bodily move the car by this time, when Papa asked the guy to shift his car, then he reversed out and we got our park.   Hooray!  

Sorgue is a compact medieval town built on the islands of five branches of the Sorgue river, 7 km downstream from its source at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. The river flows through, past, in and around the town, in its many natural beds and several canals.

 

The water adds a special beauty and character to a town. It has many large, lovely waterwheels which were used for milling and in the 13th century woollen cloth known as 'blanquets' made here were highly appreciated.  There were 62 water wheels on the canals of the river Sorgue and in 1855 there were 17 silk and wool mills in daily business employing over 290 workers, and  even if the mills are no longer working today, most of the waterwheels still turn naturally with the flow of the water.  

It was so lovely to have a rest stop here, we crossed over one of the canals and saw such a good ice cream shop that we just had to sit down and sample as many boules (scoops) as we could!  

Then took a little more time to explore some of the back streets where the houses back on to the smaller canals, and which also have water wheels still turning.  So picturesque.  

However time was pressing, our accommodation was booked and we wanted to fit in one more stop before we got there.  James and Rachel had visited Provence during their OE, I guess about 12 or 13 years ago, and they were keen to re-trace their steps a little and show us some of these amazing places.  So our next stop was a place called Gordes.

Gordes is a very beautiful old village, perched on the southern edge of the high Plateau de Vaucluse. The stone buildings built in tight against the base of the cliffs and those perched on the rocks above, including the 12th-century castle, are made of an beige stone that glows orange in the morning sun. The area is full of evidence of early Roman occupation especially the Roman road passing through Apt and Carpentras and crossing the valley. During World War II, Gordes was an active resistance village and was later awarded a medal, the Croix de guerre 1939–1945.

We arrived in the square and as usual were on  'park' alert.  There were three 'Gendarmes' at one corner of the square deep in conversation who were standing right in the way of the only car park available. For all we knew that might have been the place of a foul murder and they were guarding the evidence, so the only way to find out was to drive straight into the park and speak loud English (foreigners-don't know what they are doing,etc), and nothing happened, so it pays to be bold and of course they were obviously talking about the weather!!  

What an amazing place, so old, high up on a hill, how did they build such a quaint little village, and of course it's castle dominates the village.  The houses and buildings of white stone seem to hang on to the edge of the mountain, and its labyrinth of "calades" (narrow cobblestone streets) are fascinating and to think people actually live and work there.  Unfortunately we could only get a small taste of what it was like, but we did have time to have a drink at a restaurant in the square, so it was nice to sit and reflect on just how lucky we were to be there.

So an hour later we arrived at our hotel for the night, L'Auberge de Bonpas, and as it happened they were very busy with a wedding reception.  

So I guess it shouldn't come as a surprise that they only had David and I down for a room, the family room with two bedrooms and a full kitchenette that Rachel had booked, was off the map!!  Trying to have a deep and meaningful conversation in another language comes in for a lot of shoulder shrugging and paper waving, and pointing at "here it is in writing"!  However they were able to accommodate James and Rach, but only in one room with a double bed and two singles, plus they would bring another bed in.  I have to admire those two, they are so stoic and I guess when the chips are down you have to make the best of what you have.  

We did have a lovely dinner there and in spite of the wedding going on in the courtyard behind us, they looked after us very well.  the French certainly know how to cook, which makes up for quite a lot!  So the family 'camped', David and I had a perfect night compared to them.  But breakfast at €18 each wasn't going to do it for us, we had brought our own food after all (kitchenette?), so after a very hot night - oh yes, their air conditioning wasn't working either, "so sorry, so sorry" - we had bread and butter, or cereal and warm milk for breakfast.  

Airbus A380

Friday 2 August

Airbus A380

James booked Jasper, David and I on a tour of Airbus A380. He dropped us off at the visitors centre and we queued up!  We had to show our passports and turn off our cellphones and photos were not allowed. 

While we were waiting for the bus to take us to the specially built hangar, they were showing a film of the A380 and how it had been developed and how it is assembled and made. Because the various parts of all the planes Airbus make (including the A320's for Air NZ that James is responsible for) are made in other parts of the world, ie, Hamburg, Uk, Spain and France, they had to develop another plane, the 'Baluga' which is a very bulbous sort of plane, and we were fortunate enough to see one take off while we were there.

 

 However that wasn't enough, so they have their own ship to carry parts, they have built a special 380 road from Bordeaux toToulouse to carry parts, in fact they have spared no expense to build these planes.  

"These photos were sent to me by James who explains that they are photos of the two sections of the Fuselage just before they are joined. The forward section is made in St Nazaire and the aft section is made in Hamburg. They are then flown down in the Beluga Toulouse where they are assembled in the Final Assembly Line (FAL). They have a FAL in Hamburg and in China."

We saw a couple of A380s parked outside the hangar waiting for the next step in their production and they are emense.  Apparently the cost of these planes varies according to the clients needs - but the 'book' price is $380M, the story goes, that a billionaire from Qatar ordered one but insisted on a swimming pool be installed, then it was pointed out that taking off and landing could be a bit of a problem for the swimming pool!

Images from Lufthansa's Inaugural A380 Flight - June 10, 2011 "All photos credited to Miami-Dade Aviation Department"

The security is very tight, even though it didn't take more than 5 mins to get to the gate, we had to stop and a security guard came onto the bus and checked the seats to make sure none of us was hiding a bomb!

It was all very interesting and at the end we were able to walk through a 'mock-up' of the cabin of an A380, so could see for ourselves what it would be like to travel on one.  Of course David and I would have to travel business class for him to have a bit of space for his knees, and also of course there is a duty free shop on board and a shower.  But the economy area is just the same.  And the spooky thing is that when we sat down in the seats to try them, it didn't feel or look any different to travel in the plane we came in, the fact that it is a double decker didn't have any effect.

Airbus seem to be so proud of their planes, I know James really loves his job, it may not be the A380 but each time one of his planes (A320), is due for delivery, called 'delivery week', the stress levels are high, but then it is so exciting to see the finished product that it must give him great satisfaction. 

Toulouse 3

Thursday 1 August

Toulouse 3

So much to see, so little time.  We took the bus into Toulouse for the third time and then caught the Metro to Marche des Cames, one of the oldest areas of Toulouse, we were heading for Place de la Trinite which Rachel had recommended as one of her favourite places to sit and have a coffee while life passes by.  Armed with our trusty street map David guided us along the back roads and it was just the best, really old old buildings tucked away from the beaten track, felt I should be bumping into someone from a Shakespearean play around every corner.  

Down one street there were some very interestingly decorated balconies, I can't be sure, but it struck me as being a bit 'Amsterdam-ish', only instead of being in a window these ladies must sell their wares from their balconies!

Anyway we arrived at the Fontaine de la Trinité, and were ready for our coffee.  

When we sat down we noticed a few people gathered around a lady who was sitting on the ground holding her ankle, she had obviously tripped up, and it was good to see the concern people felt for her, someone fetched her a drink of water from one of the cafes, another gave her some ice to put on her ankle, and we could see a third on the phone presumably ringing for an ambulance.  It took quite a while for the ambulance to come, we had ordered and finished our coffee by the time it came. 

We then walked back to the Place de la Capitale as David went to the information centre again to get another street map, ours had just about worn out, and I took the opportunity to browse through the items on display at the market in the square.  There are many people of different races in Toulouse which makes it such an interesting place to experience, and there were some really interesting ethnic African  stalls, quite  a lot of leather goods, jewellery, kaftans, and always there are hats, so it was nice to have a bit of time before David came back armed with yet more maps!

As we walked back along these old narrow streets we came across a Roman entrance arch which had lost its centre, there was a tall tower behind it.  

Apparently this was College de Foix, there was a map on the wall showing it as being part of a much bigger complex.

The next place of interest was the old monastery called Convent des Jacobins, again down a sort of side street off the beaten track, built hundreds of years ago and it's main featured was the nine huge columns down the centre.  

We walked around admiring the many pictures and stained glass windows and then out again into the searing heat.

We were heading for the Basilica which was built around the 12th century, and walked down a busy street full of cafes and interesting shops, it was lunch time so we picked out a restaurant which had tables under umbrellas and checked out the menu.

 

We were lucky enough to have a waiter who spoke English so made having something different a bit easier. We both chose 'Galletes' which is essentially a pancake made out of maize and is  folded in a sort of square over a choice of fillings, delicious. I chose 'jambon, champignons et fromage' and David had 'trios fromage', all washed down with a pitcher of cider. 

And so on to Basilique St Sernin.  

These awe inspiring buildings would take hundreds of years to build, and probably bits are still being added today.  What is wonderful is that it has been so well preserved for future generations to use and enjoy.  We walked around trying to take it all in and also went down to the crypt which contains the shrines of several apostles and some of the most popular saints.  I guess you just have to be there!

And so back on the bus and our journey home took only 25 mins, our bus driver must have had an important date - he swung that long-jointed bus around narrow corners and around roundabouts like he was driving a mini!

The Cost Brava

Wednesday 31 July

The Cost Brava

We made the most of the journey home.  Had the car all packed and apartment ready to leave by 9.30am and left for one last swim at the beach.  

Being so early we had the choice of most of the beach, there were still a contingent of topless middle aged ladies spread out on the 'recliners' who claimed their spot before us.  How do they do it? I'd have to have something pretty strong for breakfast before I could bare all, well almost all. In a way I admire their boldness, they don't have a problem, it's me that has the problem!   Mmmm wonder what the sun feels like on.......  

So the children had one last swim, made one last sandcastle and made one little friend who insisted on breaking down the walls of the castle. While observing all this, a young guy came down to the waters edge followed by at least a dozen kids aged between 4 and 12.  Interesting?  I think he was giving them swimming lessons, but they were all over the place, he put on his speedo hat over his enormous 'Rasty' hair and proceeded to take them into slightly deeper water.  Of course I had my trusty camera ready and took a shot and then noticed he was pointing at me, and in perfect sign language made it quite clear that no photos allowed.  At first I thought he was a bit paranoid about 'health and safety' laws.  But after some consideration I reckon he was conscious of kids photos on the web for paedophiliacs, and quite rightly, so I put my camera away.

After a couple of hours we had to pack up and walk back to our apartment and head for the next stop. As soon as we left there was almost a stampede for our spot!

We were heading for Pals, it only took about an hour on the motorway and when we turned off heading for the village it was a market day so plenty of people and few parks.  We could see these medieval buildings rising ahead of us on the hill dominated by the church Esglesia de Sant Pere, it

 

truly towers over the small picturesque town. Research on the web tells us that the Esglesia de Sant Pere originates from the year 944. The church has been changed so many times in the course of time that it is now an amalgam of roman, gothic and baroque styles. We walked our way up and once in front of the church we also saw the former bell tower "Torre des hores" (tower of the hours) which rises into the sky as the only remnant of a castle from the 11 and 12 century.  

The village is so compact, narrow hilly roads and steps up to a variety of charming shops selling art work, leather goods, etc.  

P

The initial street led up to the village square where there was a restaurant with tables, sun umbrellas and chairs, decidedly full .  Also the information centre - where they had a cellar cut into the rock keeping the wine cool.  We were getting a bit hungry at this stage, but we convinced the children to keep climbing and came across another restaurant lining the side of the road with the most wonderful outlook. So after a bit of shuffling tables and chairs and a few umbrellas, we all managed to be seated and in some shade - and with a view to die for.  

We were watched over by what looked to me to be the owner (or wife of the owner). She came back with water and then stood back while we re-arranged the furniture, then gave us the menus, we ordered drinks and she took out her pad, but we weren't ready yet.  Eventually we were ready and when James ordered steak and chips he asked for it medium rare, she looked blankly at him, so he tried to mime it, not easy, so he said 'medium', and she went  off with a chuckle muttering "medium"!  So we were looking forward to seeing what he was going to be served.  All good in the end, it was more of an escalope than a steak, quite large, but thin so I guess it comes as it is.  We all enjoyed our meals, even me who, not feeling that hungry, ordered an asparagus and mushroom omelette and it came looking rather like green scrambles eggs.  During our meal a stooped old man and his little dog shuffled by and sat in the shade behind us, she obviously knew him and gave him some bread and a pitcher of wine (sounds religious doesn't it) and he didn't seem at all grateful, not sure what that was about. 

We wandered back down the hill, back to the hot car and headed further south to Sa Tuna. Yet another picturesque little town built up on the hillside with pretty white houses overlooking a pebble beach and tall sea wall.  

We were able to get into a car park on the road down to the beach with a very busy parking warden on a scooter picking up the money for parking and dishing out parking fines, we saw him several times buzzing around the village.  So we picked up our towels and swim gear and ambled down to the beach.

 

 I had had enough sun by now so was eyeing a small space just big enough for my towel in the shade of the wall.  I smiled sweetly at the older couple already there and she smiled back, so I was in.  David and I squeezed ourselves in and the others rushed off down to the sea which did look glorious.

 

 They had a lovely swim and came back with stories of silver fish swimming around. The people next to us soon moved so we had enough room for everyone.  It was a lovely way to finish our Costa Brava experience, we piled back in the car and about 3 hours later were munching on McDonald's for dinner.

We stopped on the way back to stretch our legs, oh yes, and take a picture of Carcassonne, I am already looking forward to a day trip there!

L'Esrartit day 2

Monday 29 July

L'Esrartit day 2

So, L'Estartit, a beach resort on the Mediterranean coast.

There are three main parts, going north there are the marinas with all manner of beautiful boats tied up, a playground for the kids, icecream stands, canoes on high racks waiting for the teenagers to book an 'adventure' trip, a plethora of tourist boats all offering trips around the bays, out to the islands, to the caves, snorkelIing, diving, etc.  

David, James and Jasper booked themselves on a trip around to the caves with time to swim and do a bit of snorkelling.  The sea looked a little choppy for Rachel and me so we gave it a miss, the boys had a great time, the boat had a glass bottom so that they could see the lovely coral and the colourful fish swimming around, Jasper and James swam for about 15 mins and then it was time to come back, the wind had got up so it was definitely not for someone with a sea-sick problem.

Coming further south round the bay there are the high rise hotels and shops, nothing too extreme, nothing too high, but with the hills as the back drop the houses climb up the hillsides and it is very attractive.  Most of the buildings are white, cream or a shade of terracotta, quite Spanish looking with wrought iron balustrades and terracotta tiled roofs, and colourful window boxes.  

The shops and restaurants spill out into the street, the shops are mostly the tourist kind, colourful, affordable and full of things you need, like 'crocs', scarves, swimming togs, bags in all shapes and hues, sun dresses, shorts, skimpy tops, jewellery, etc. There are more restaurants than cafes, all offering something slightly different, tapas and paella are pretty stable, but fish or steak and chips are obviously very popular also.  There are no take-aways or Chinese or Indian restaurants, I think food is a leisurely past time here, their siesta lasts from around 12 to 3pm and it is not unusual for shops to close at that time. 

Then past the commercial area there are the beaches which stretch for at least 2 k's.  They are packed with families the whole way.  It looks just like on the post cards, lovely striped sun umbrellas, deck chairs, maybe I should call them recliners, all decked along prime spots along the beach and close to the water, and all for hire at €5 a day!  

The sand is soft, golden and wide, so there is in fact plenty of room for all, the later you come the further from the sea you are, but the sand is still good.  The sea is clear and warm, at least once you are past that first initial splash, there is a shallow gradient so that the little kids are safe from being swept out by a freak wave and there are no 'holes' to get stuck in. I didn't see any jelly fish, so it's all good.

 

The cars pack in on the hard sand close to the road, so the only danger about going to this beach is that you might get run over!!  There was also a travelling fair ground which was just being packed up and as we were leaving the following day there was a children's roundabout being assembled, so no shortage of entertainment.  Every 500 mtrs or so there was a refreshment hut, like a cafe really with tables and chairs under the awning which sold all sorts of snacks, juices and alcohol. 

Definitely a great place to have a family holiday, and, no, it's nothing like any other beach resort I have been to.